Israel 2015-- looking back and looking forward

5/18/15

Greetings from Ben Gurion Airport. For obvious reasons this will be a quick post, meant mostly as a summary to all that has led up to this moment.

The beautiful artwork above is a mural that stands at the entrance to the Hagar School in Be’ersheva. The two faces looking intently at one another are a metaphor for the 2015 Israel Trip. Each of our faces is unique, each is a collage of sorts, composed of many other faces. The faces of family, friends, our kehillah… their faces are reflected in our face and our face is reflected in theirs. Jean Paul Sarte famously said, “To be is to be seen.” We exist because others acknowledge our existence. We come to understand ourselves based not only on how we self-identify but also based on what others see in us.

The participants on the 2015 Israel Trip looked intensely at one another and at ourselves. We looked intensely at our Jewish identities and at Israel, our Jewish homeland. We tried our hardest to look past the surface. We tried our hardest to see the complexity, the beauty, the history, and the potential in ourselves, in one another, in our Jewish tradition, and in Israel. And we also tried to make our time together into a work of beautiful art that can adorn the entrance to our hearts.

Briefly: today we visited Yad L’Kashish and Machane Yehudah. Two sites that show how vibrant the life force is in Jerusalem. Yad L’Kashish is a wonderful place. Elderly Israelis are employed there as artisans. The things they create are truly unique and “made in Israel.” One highlight of Yad L’Kashish was when David C. was able to communicate with some of the elderly employees who spoke only Russian. Their faces lit up when they discovered that there was a member of our group who could converse with them in their native language. Another profound connection.

Machane Yehudah, Jerusalem’s central market, is a culinary and cultural tour de force. I could’ve cried watching some of our pickiest eaters trying the exotic food there as part of our scavenger hunt. If you have a picky eater please make sure you check in with them to see if their palate has expanded on this trip.

In the previous post I mentioned that I’d share some thoughts about how to help the kids process this experience. In that spirit I’ll offer the following—give them time. Good stories don’t always emerge in a linear fashion. Key pieces of information and transformational moments might only be expressed non-verbally or in a roundabout way. Don’t try to fit all of the anecdotes and souvenirs into a chronological outline of the trip. Be curious and listen carefully and the personal meanings and growth that your child took away from Israel will eventually become clear as day.

The Israel Trip comes at the end of the Davis journey. That means that the chaperones and all the teachers at Davis don’t always get to see the long- term effect of the trip and of The Davis Academy experience more generally. And we’re okay with that because we have participated in the tilling of the field, the planting of the seeds, and the watering of the garden. We have looked into the faces of your children and seen pieces of our own journeys there. It has been our privilege and our blessing.

See you soon!

Israel 2015-- The Key

5/17/15

Well, the kids are up in their rooms packing. Tomorrow we check out of the Jerusalem Tower Hotel and spend our last day in Israel. Our suitcases are literally and figuratively overflowing. They are literally overflowing because we’ve just come off of a 2 ½ hour shopping spree on Ben Yehuda St. They are figuratively overflowing because of the many experiences we’ve had these last two weeks. Today was certainly no exception because in addition to visiting Ben Yehuda Street (on Yom Yerushalayim no less) we also visited Yad VaShem and Har Hertzl.

Much like the stories of the people that either survived or perished during the Holocaust, no two tours of Yad VaShem are the same. Today all three of our groups were blessed to have exceptional guides. In turn, our guides were blessed to have exceptional groups. They were all overwhelmed by the Cavod and knowledge that emanated from our kids. Many people are responsible for instilling a sense of Cavod in our kids, but when it comes to their knowledge about the Shoah and their readiness to visit Yad VaShem, Ms. Schwartz’s 7^th Grade Jewish Studies class deserves special recognition.

Yad VaShem confronts you with unanswerable questions. If you were stripped of all your possessions except for what you could carry in your pocket, what would you take with you? What depths and what heights are humanity capable of achieving? How could there have been a soup kitchen and no fewer than 6 Yiddish theaters in the heart of the Warsaw Ghetto? These and others. In a particularly poignant moment Mr. Frank asked us to think back on our Israel trip. He then pointed out that if we were to say the name of 1 child per second the entire length of our trip wouldn’t be enough to recite the names of all the Jewish children that were murdered during the Holocaust.  

Among the many stories and facts that were shared on our tour today,two stand out. First, there is, at Yad VaShem, a Hanukkiah that is on permanent loan from a family that lived in pre-war Germany. Alongside the actual Hanukkiah there is a picture of the Hanukkiah in the family’s window in Germany. Defiantly displayed for all to see with a huge Nazi flag looming in the background. The Hanukkiah is on display year round at Yad VaShem except for the two weeks of Hanukkah when the descendents of the family reclaim their Hanukkiah and use it for their celebration. Second, our guide pointed out a photograph. Just one of the hundreds on display. She asked us to look at the Jewish woman in the photograph. It was a photograph of a woman with a Nazi gun pointed at her. Possibly her final moments of life. She asked us to describe how the woman looked. Defiant, proud, confident, unafraid. There are some things that others can never take from us.

The journey from Yad VaShem to Har Hertzl is a journey from sacrifice to sacrifice as well as a journey from bravery to bravery. At Har Hertzl, like at Latrun, Israeli men and women are buried alongside one another with no attention paid to rank. We visited the graves of famous Israelis as well as the every day men and women who represent the “silver platter” upon which Israel is given to us. Without a doubt the most sobering part of Har Hertzl is the journey to the newest graves. There’s at least an entire row of graves that weren’t there last year. On the way to the newest graves we passed through a courtyard that will, with almost complete certainty, one day be the final resting place of more Israeli boys and girls. Among the newest graves we visited the resting place of an American born young man who joined the army after his first visit to Israel on a birthright trip. His parents had never visited Israel until they came to attend his funeral.

Ben Yehuda aside, today was anything but an enjoyable day. But we didn’t come to Israel only for the fun moments and the joyful sites. We came to connect with Israel. With the land, with the people, with the stories, with the cultures. We came so that the Homeland we’ve dreamt of and imagined could become real to us in all of its complexity, tragedy, and triumph. Many families have noted that the Israel trip is the metaphorical key to understanding the entire Davis Academy experience. In a sense, Yad VaShem and Har Hertzl are the key to understanding the entire Israel trip. In that respect our visits today were well timed. Tomorrow we will visit a few final destinations with our eyes fully open to the complexity of life in Israel. Then we will begin the journey home to Atlanta to see how our time here translates back into our lives at home. If you haven't considered it already, take a moment to prepare for the fact that your child will come back changed. Sure they'll still be the same (usually) great kid you sent to Israel, but each will be, in some small or large way, transformed. Tomorrow I'll give my two cents about how to help them transition back to life in the States. For now, let yourself imagine how this trip has left an indelible imprint on their lives. 

Israel 2015-- Keeping Shabbat

5/16/15

This morning we walked to Moreshet Yisrael, one of Jerusalem’s Conservative Synagogues. As we approached the synagogue a man called out to us, “Go Hawks!” That was the kids’ first introduction to Rabbi Adam Frank. Rabbi Frank is originally from Atlanta, attended GHA, and even has nieces at Davis. He welcomed us to his congregation with open arms. Highlights of the service were the parts where our kids were invited to play an active role, including Audrey K. who chanted the Aliyah blessings beautifully. As a gesture of good will, The Davis Academy sponsored the Kiddush reception so our kids were able to help themselves to some delicious treats as they mingled with the members of the congregation.

One of the gifts of Shabbat is the gift of rest. In that spirit we tacked on an additional hour to lunch back at the hotel so the kids could put their feet up and enjoy a few moments of simple quiet. They were very appreciative.

The Israel Museum, our next stop, is a remarkable place. Among the many priceless artifacts housed at the museum are the Dead Sea Scrolls. One of the recurring themes of the Dead Sea Scrolls is the idea that there always has been and always will be a cosmic battle between “Bnai Or” (“The Children of Light”) and “Bnai Hoshech” (“The Children of Darkness”). It was true 2,000 years ago and unfortunately it’s true today. Some of us might even be willing to acknowledge that such a battle rages within our own soul. To be a Jew is to cling to the belief that Bnai Or will eventually and conclusively triumph. The kids had a good time completing a scavenger hunt in the museum before taking our iconic group photo at the Ahava statue.

Across the street from the Israel Museum are most of the government buildings of the State of Israel including the Knesset and Supreme Court. A lovely park overflowing with rose bushes separates the buildings. While looking for a shady spot to do a group reflection we passed many birthright groups and families enjoying the beautiful Jerusalem weather. To help the kids reflect, our tour guides placed various creative maps of the Israel in the center of the circle. Kids were asked to pick a map that helped them speak about an aspect of the Israel trip that was important to them.

Before dinner we paid a quick visit to the famous Menorah that stands outside the Knesset. Because the Menorah contains the prophetic verse, “Not by might and not by power, but through spirit alone,” we sang the Debbie Friedman song. In yet another moment of connection the Birthright group next to us joined us in singing this familiar song.

After enjoying pizza in the park we made our way to the busses. As we walked the kids burst into a spontaneous version of “Big Trip.” Mr. Barry took it upon himself to modify the lyrics to reflect what we’ve actually done here in Israel. One of the themes of our group reflection was how much more vivid and personal our connection to Israel is now that we’ve actually visited here. The modified version of Big Trip captures this theme perfectly.

Havdallah overlooking the Old City was full of spirit. It’s bittersweet that the Ruach for Jewish music and tefillah that the kids have when they’re younger but then kind of tuck away during Middle School comes back in such full force on the Israel trip. It’s bittersweet because there are only a few opportunities left for us to join our voices in song and prayer. But the main thing is that we make the most of these opportunities and that our kids leave Davis with the ability to access this place of spirit and song whenever they want or need to.

The David Citadel Light Show tells the history of Jerusalem in a compelling and memorable way. It’s a perfect activity for a Saturday night in Jerusalem. If you haven’t studied the history of Jerusalem there’s no way you can appreciate the narrative that the Light Show tells. But our kids totally got it. They know their stuff.

Looking back on our Shabbat in Jerusalem I’ll simply call our collective attention to the simplicity of the day. We woke up, walked to shul, had lunch, rested, visited a lovely museum, spent some time together in a park, made havdallah, and enjoyed a cultural experience in Jerusalem. It was a perfect, simple day. Ahad Ha’am, an important Zionist philosopher said, “More than the Jewish people have kept Shabbat, Shabbat has kept the Jewish people.” I hope that this Shabbat in Jerusalem will be one that the kids keep in their hearts and souls. I suspect that they will and also suspect that for most, if not all, it won’t be the last they’ll celebrate in this magical place.

Shavua Tov!

Israel 2015-- At Home in the City of Gold

5/15/15

            Jerusalem. There’s no place like it. Thousands of years ago the Psalmist recognized the power of this place when he wrote, “All humanity will say: my roots are in you.” But even more compelling than Jerusalem’s history is its present. This city is spiritually alive. Jerusalem is a place where Jews, Christians, and Muslims come to connect with the roots of their faiths and cultures. Jerusalem: a golden city crowded with pilgrims from all corners of the earth. Jerusalem: a place where faith trumps fact, and where belief is more important than evidence.

            Our journey to the heart of Jerusalem began at King David’s tomb. Located at the edge of the Old City, King David’s tomb is a holy site for Jews, Christians, and Muslims. The tomb is on the ground floor of a two- floor building. The second floor is believed to be the location of the Last Supper, making the site synonymous with the birth of Christianity. In the center of that very same room is an altar pointing toward Mecca because, during the early Muslim period, the room was used as a mosque. In other words, we started our day by visiting a single building that is simultaneously a synagogue (Jewish prayer services are held at David’s tomb), a church, and a mosque. If only there were more places where all three of these faiths were able to worship alongside one another!

            From David’s Tomb we visited one of the holiest sites in the Christian faith: The Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Home to the final 4 stages of the cross, Christians believe that Jesus was crucified, buried, and resurrected in that very spot. We watched Christian pilgrims rub prayer candles on the spot where Jesus’ body was anointed with olive oil after being taken off the cross, and saw the long line outside of the tomb that Christians believe he occupied for only 3 days before being resurrected. Our kids were fascinated by the church and had many questions. They wished that their friends from the Marist School could’ve been there to tour it with them. As we toured the church I thought about how important it is to make sure that our kids remain curious about Judaism in the years to come. Sometimes the thing that we know best ceases to be an object of scrutiny and inquiry. That’s not always a bad thing, but I do believe it is essential that we find ways to keep our kids Jewishly curious once they leave Davis.

            After visiting the church we had a Pizur lunch in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City.  We enjoyed the pre-Shabbat hustle and bustle. While standing outside of a Jewish home our tour guide asked us to stop and smell the smells of Shabbat. He asked us what we smelled when a voice from inside the house cried out, “Cholent!” And then a moment later, “And chicken too!” It was a sweet moment of connection in a city that is all about connecting.

            From lunch we visited the much anticipated Hezekiah’s Water Tunnel and City of David. The City of David is the site of the archaeological remains of Jerusalem as it would have been during the 1^st Temple Period. Hezekiah’s water tunnel is nothing short of an architectural wonder. In an unforgettable turn of events we made our way out of the water tunnel just as a small group of Latin American tourists were literally stripping off all of their clothing to immerse themselves in the water there. We’re still not entirely sure why they felt the need to do that but I can assure you that, especially for some of our boys, it solidified the memory of this particular site. Our tour guides thought it was the funniest thing they’d ever scene. A true cultural encounter.

            We eventually made it back to the hotel before turning right around to go to the Kotel for Shabbat. We started our Shabbat evening at “Ezrat Yisrael” in the Robinson’s Arch area. A number of kids had their b’nai mitzvah in the very spot that we had services tonight. We stood in a circle, offered readings, and sang our prayers a capella since musical instruments aren’t allowed. Then we made our way to the main Kotel area so that we could join with the rest of the Jewish community that had come to greet Shabbat. Our girls showed true leadership on their side of the Wall by starting a singing circle that expanded to include many other women. Their presence made a profound impact on many of the women at the Kotel tonight. On the boy’s side we joined with the thousands of men and boys in their various prayer circles. We sang and danced and enjoyed the atmosphere, but the definite highlight was having a chance to meet, shake hands, and pray with Omri Casspi, the Israeli born NBA star who is back home in Israel for the off season (GO HAWKS!). By the way, everyone in Israel is rooting for the Cavaliers because their head coach is the former head coach of Maccabi Tel Aviv. The best part about meeting Omri Casspi is that, at the Kotel on Friday night, everyone is equal. We’re all Jews welcoming the Shabbat, joining together in community, and standing before God.

            Leaving the Kotel we encountered some good old fashioned Israeli “Balagan” (“chaos”) as one of our busses had broken down. 25 of us walked back to the hotel and enjoyed the quiet streets of Jerusalem. After dinner the kids went up to their rooms and are winding down before our last Shabbat day in Israel.

            Everywhere we go in Israel we run into college and post-college aged young adults on Birthright Trips. You may or may not know, but Birthright has many supporters and many detractors. The detractors are quick to point out that many Birthright participants don’t really have the knowledge or foundation in Judaism to fully appreciate the gift of the Birthright Trip and that the trip ends up being an isolated experience in an otherwise unengaged Jewish life. What I consistently come back to when I encounter Birthright groups is the incredible disparity between our kids and the Birthright folks. Our kids have such a solid foundation in Judaism that they really feel at home here in Israel. They may not be interested in observing every aspect of Jewish ritual or every single mitzvah, but that’s not really the point of a Davis education. The point is that they have been given the keys to a faith, culture, and tradition and been shown how to carve out a place for themselves within it.  Judaism isn’t something that can be taken away from them and it isn’t something that they can easily cast off. It is a core part of the way that they make sense of the world, whether they know it or not. They think with Jewish minds and feel with Jewish hearts. Many of the Birthright participatns don’t have that, and to be honest, it’s kind of sad watching them trying to play catch up. When I look at our kids I think of the many years of memories and the literally countless Jewish experiences that they'll carry with them to high school. They have a much stronger foundation than I ever had, though I certainly grew up in a warm and dedicated Jewish home. One of our guides, Eran, remarked that if two Davis kids ended up on the same Birthright bus the entire tone of the trip would change and the knowledge gap would be profound. We should all derive tremendous pride and comfort in knowing that our kids will not only be able to enjoy the richness of Judaism in their own lives, but that they will also be able to share the gift of Judaism with others. What a tremendous capacity and power for an 8^th grader to have. What an incredible gift we have given them.

            Many people come to Jerusalem as pilgrims. Fewer have the spiritual and religious foundation necessary to feel at home in this overwhelming city. Whether they choose to call Jerusalem their home or not, there’s no doubt that our kids are among the precious few that can authentically call Jerusalem their home.

Shabbat Shalom!