Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Israel 2015-- Those Crazy Israelis

5/13/15



            Tonight we had dinner as the sun set over the Tel Aviv port. After dinner we met a “crazy Israeli”: Lisa Cohen. Lisa is the founder and executive director of BRACHA. BRACHA is a volunteer organization that is dedicated to helping raise awareness of how genetic patterns increase the risk of breast and ovarian cancer for Jewish women. Cohen founded BRACHA after losing both her mother and sister to cancer in close proximity.  Originally from Wales, she works two jobs by day and dedicates whatever energy and resources she has left to running BRACHA and caring for her three children, two of whom are currently serving in the army and one of whom is her 13 year old daughter, Emily. We met Lisa (and Emily) because BRACHA is the Israel charity that the Davis Academy Class of 2015 selected in 7th grade during Project Impact. Since BRACHA lacks a robust non-profit infrastructure we were unable to deliver the near $2,000 of funds that the kids allocated more than a year ago until this evening. But everything happens for a reason because this meant that Jake R. and Noah G., the two kids who researched and nominated the charity, were able to speak in front of the entire class and hand the check to Lisa in person. I don’t think that Lisa was prepared for the size of our group. I say that because she commented on how surprised she was that a school from the United States had taken an interest in BRACHA  and because she was clearly emotional throughout the entire presentation, especially when Jake spoke about what moved him to nominate BRACHA. A number of our kids came up to thank her and share how cancer has impacted their lives. At the end we took a group picture wearing the white hats that she gave to each of us. I call Lisa a “crazy Israeli” because of the sheer magnitude of her commitments—two jobs, three kids, and a non-profit organization that is trying to save lives.  
            I’m writing to you from the lobby of the Seanet Hotel. All around me kids are visiting with Israeli family and friends. Some of them are reuniting. Some of them are meeting for the first time. Though the mood is light and the conversations are casual I know that I’m witnessing a moment of sacred connection. It’s inspiring. And I’m certain that some of the folks chatting around me are also “crazy Israelis” with stories, commitments, and lives that represent the multifaceted nature of Israeli society. And Mr. Frank has joined us bringing his loud laugh and endless energy to the remaining days of our trip.
            Today we explored Tel Aviv in greater depth than on any other Davis Academy trip. And we are the better for it. We explored Tel Aviv by visiting the Palmach Museum, participating in a scavenger hunt in the city center, and swimming in the Mediterranean Sea.
            The Palmach Museum is a testament to the fact that Tel Aviv and all of Israel exist because of the tremendous sacrifice of tens of thousands of men and women who fought and died in the years leading up to and following 1948. It’s a great museum and always makes an impression on the kids. During our visit to the Palmach museum we ran into the grandparents of a future Davis Academy mechina student! Were it not for the crazy Israelis that formed the rank and file of the Palmach and other pre-state military forces Israeli would not exist. In the words of the Israeli poet, Natan Altermann, their lives are the “silver platter” upon which Israel received its independence.
            The “On our Streets’ scavenger hunt provided an interesting balance to the Palmach Museum. Whereas the museum is a reverent and at times somber place, the streets of Tel Aviv are overflowing with crazy Israelis. Consider that our scavenger hunt, in addition to asking us to find a variety of significant landmarks, also awarded us points for taking pictures with people dressed in gothic or punk attire, people inked with animal tattoos, and celebrities. Animal tattoos were shockingly easy to find.  Celebrities were a bit harder, but one group did meet a true Israeli celebrity: Dovele Glickman, and another group stumbled upon a TV show being filmed at Dizengoff Square. The crazy Israelies of Tel Aviv were only too happy to help us complete our various quests and the kids absolutely loved doing it. Jared R. and Sarah L. exhibited remarkable leadership and could’ve continued exploring Tel Aviv for at least another week.
The juxtaposition of the Palmach Museum and “On our Streets” brought to the fore an interesting tension in Israeli society and Jewish life more generally. That’s because one of the scavenger hunt quests involved identifying the names and basic biographies of some of the people after which Tel Aviv’s streets are named. Even though these details are readily available on the signs themselves, most of the Israelis we met couldn’t tell you who most of those people were or why the streets bore their names. The Jewish commitment to honoring the memory of those that came before us and the Jewish commitment to living each moment to the fullest seemed to be, at least momentarily, in tension with one another on the streets of Tel Aviv and in the hearts of the crazy Israelis we met there.
            If the Palmach Museum is about honoring the past, the Mediterranean Sea is all about being in the moment. Swimming in the Mediterranean gave our kids a chance to taste what life is like for many crazy Israelis.
A few years ago as I watched the kids splashing in the sea I realized that I was witnessing one of the purest expressions of carefree joy I’d ever seen. Knowing that these moments in Israel truly represent the freest moments that these kids may ever experience I was filled with a variety of emotions. On the one hand I was, in the best sense, envious of the kids and their simple happiness. On the other hand I found tremendous meaning in my ability to see their joy in a broader context and through the lens of my somewhat more expansive life experience. My wish for them is that they find a way to preserve the core of their being that allows them to dive into the sea with such abandon but also that their life experiences lead them to a similar place of appreciation where they’re able to stand on the shore and see what I saw today.
            I’ll conclude with a crazy Israeli story. One of our kids left his wallet in Mitzpe Ramon. Mitzpe Ramon is the worst possible place to leave your wallet on this trip. It’s like leaving your wallet in Tipton, Ga. Here are the details that make this a crazy Israeli story.  First, we learned of the missing wallet because the hotel called to inform us. We couldn’t confirm whether there was any money in the wallet because the hotel refused to open it and placed it immediately in a sealed envelope. Next, the wallet was brought to Tel Aviv by the husband of someone who works at the hotel who happens to be an Egged bus driver. It was acquired by Morah Lahav at Tel Aviv’s central bus station during the short period between when the driver arrived and when he departed. Finally, it was returned, with all of its contents, to the kid who lost it. Like I said, a crazy Israeli story.
Not every Israeli knows why the streets of Tel Aviv are named the way they are. Not every Israeli actively thinks about the sacrifices that were made and are made in order for Israel to exist. Not every Israeli would report a lost wallet or drive a bus that could schlep it ½ way across the country. Not every Israeli is originally from Wales and working three jobs. Not every Israeli has an animal tattoo. Not every Israeli has a friend or relative in the Davis Academy graduating class of 2015. But we know a few Israelis who do meet at least some of these criteria.  And we are crazy about them. 

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