Today we stayed within a 15 mile radius as we explored Tel Aviv- Jaffa. Within that 15 mile radius we saw and experienced such vibrancy and diversity that it's really impossible to summarize. If you've been to Tel Aviv- Jaffa then you know. If you haven't, then you one day must.
Jaffa is an ancient port city at the southern end of Tel Aviv. It's history goes back further than most of us can fathom. It's associated with the biblical character of Jonah and so much more. The view of Tel Aviv from Jaffa is beautiful and Jaffa itself is an unforgettably enchanting place. Narrow alleyways built during the Ottoman period, chic cafes and storefronts along the waterfront, thousands of years of history around every corner. For the most part Jews and Muslims co-exist peacefully in Jaffa. We toured, spent a bit of time wandering in the Jaffa flea market, and had a very special visit from our beloved shinshin, Nave. Boy were the kids happy to see him!
From Jaffa we headed to the south Tel Aviv neighborhood of Florentine. A rapidly gentrifying area, Florentine is famous for its graffiti and street art. Touring with local street artists we learned how to interpret different examples and also delved into the general mindset of street artists. Far from simple obscenity vandalizing local business, the street art in Florentine is alive with political, ethical, and social messaging. As one guide, Ari, pointed out: in the overly curated echo-chamber that social media has become, encountering street art is a chance to explore multiple and diverse points of view. And creating street art is a way of participating in social growth and change.
From Florentine we headed to Shuk Hacarmel and Nachalat Binyamin. Simply stated, this bustling market place and arts and crafts fair offers something for everyone. There are musicians busking in the local squares, vendors doing everything humanly possible to get your business, and more delicious food than a person could eat in a lifetime. Knowing that our kids had gifts to buy and shekels to burn we gave them ample time to experience the sensory overload of the market and also make thoughtful (and in some cases quite interesting) purchases.
By 3:45 we were back at the hotel to freshen up before heading back out at 5pm for Kabbalat Shabbat services at a local Tel Aviv Reform style congregation called Kehillat HaLev. Rabbi Rodrigo (who moved to Israel from Brazil 8 years ago) was very excited to get to know our group. He welcomed us 30 minutes before the service started. Together we sat on mats on the floor of the very modest congregation space (which during the week is a senior citizen center). He helped us understand how Reform Judaism (and liberal Judaism more generally) function in Israel, including many challenges and opportunities. The service itself took place in a beautiful courtyard. The rabbi was warm, inclusive and gracious, as was the community. A few of our favorite songs from Davis were actually part of the service and we once again found ourselves dancing as we prayed. Members of the community read poems that they had written based on the weekly Torah portion and many intimate moments were shared. As you'll see in the videos, it was a truly "Tel Aviv" Shabbat.
Driving back to the hotel as the sun was setting over Tel Aviv we saw literally hundreds of restaurants, each of them overflowing with people sitting down to enjoy Shabbat in Tel Aviv. So very different from Jerusalem and yet, in other ways, the same. A shift of energy, a communal deep breath, a chance to put down our devices and our worries and focus on things that refresh and renew us.
By the end of dinner the kids were ready to head to their rooms to shower, do some packing, and get some rest. Tomorrow is our last full day in Israel (this elicited a strong negative reaction from the kids) and we want to make the most of it.
For those of you that have been following along with the pictures and this blog, you likely know that the magic of The Davis Academy Israel Trip has been felt in every step of our journey. With this being my 12th Davis Israel Trip I can affirm that the magic is real. When your child comes home they will be transformed. But they'll be transformed in a very unique way. They won't be transformed into "someone else." Instead, somehow, by spending this time in Israel, at this poignant moment in their lives, after all their years at Davis... they'll be transformed into a more full and realized version of their authentic selves. And whether we've said it explicitly or not, that's been our goal all along.
Shabbat Shalom from Tel Aviv.
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