Israel and Adolescence

5/10/18

            We woke up before dawn. Like the rest of the Negev, we were treated to a majestic sunrise. The quiet of the desert was punctuated by moments of light chatter, the shuffling of sleepy kids wrapped in blankets, and a sunrise playlist curated by Mr. Frank. Once the sun announced itself, we began tending to the business of breaking down camp.

            After breakfast we set off to hike Ein Avdat. The trailhead starts at the mouth of a steep canyon. It follows a stream that eventually turns into a small waterfall. Since we were the first group to climb the canyon that day, there were fresh animal prints and other signs of desert wildlife all around us. Amazingly, the only way out of the canyon is up. Up a series of switchbacks and steps that eventually lead to a series of ladders that, when taken together, result in literally climbing up the side of the imposing cliff. Even our most experienced hikers found the prospect of ascending the cliff to be a formidable one. And every one us, at some point, experienced moments of both despair and elation on our journey. Fortunately the hike goes much more quickly than expected and the views and sense of accomplishment are a sweet reward. As are the popsicles that we gave the kids.

            Rabbi Camelstein, Camelo Anthony, Humpasaurus Rex, Phoebe, and Kehilah Kamela. These are just a few of the names that your children bestowed upon the pachyderms  that had the unique privilege of serving as their beasts of burden on our camel ride today. Clearly the kids developed a deep and enduring bond with these incredible fellow creatures of God. Fortunately, no contact information was exchanged and there are at least a few kids who are now ready to hang up their camel riding spurs. It was a “shehiyanu moment.” Following our camel ride we were treated to some Bedouin style hospitality. For most of us, that meal alone would be enough for the entire day.

            The kids were so excited to get to Tel Aviv that they made Davis Academy history by being the first group that I know of to travel from the Negev to Tel Aviv without stopping for a potty break. Our guides were very impressed.

            We had a wonderful afternoon shopping in Tel Aviv both at the artist market (Nahalat Binyamin) and the Shuk (Shuk HaCarmel). A bunch of our boys were happy to have a reunion with Eden, a former classmate of theirs. And everyone was eager to unload some of their shekels. As we gathered at the meeting point we watched an incredible street performer banging on some homemade drums. His incessant pounding, and the cacophony of Tel Aviv more generally, made for a stark contrast with our morning sunrise and hike.

            If lunch was an overwhelming feast, dinner was something straight out of the 19^th century Ottoman Empire (in a good way). Dr. Shakshuka knows how to feed a group of hungry kids. While the centerpiece of the meal is what many consider the world’s finest Shakshuka, our tables were literally covered with dozens of other dishes, both sides and entrees. We were so happy to welcome Jami Bohrer to join us at dinner. When she shared about her time studying at Tel Aviv University it was clear that many of our kids were taking notes. Jami's presentation made almost as big an impact as the appearance of a local resident wearing an extremely vulgar and inappropriate t-shirt! 

            After such a long day, the kids are happy to be in their rooms, showering and reconnecting with their luggage.

            Today we realized that Israel is a country of polarities. The barrenness of the desert and the overcrowded city. The ancient traditions of the Bedouins and the relentless creativity of the artist market. These and other contrasts help explain why Israel is so seductive, intense, and fascinating a place to visit. There’s always another facet, another perspective, another taste, another story. Part of what makes this trip so transformative for our kids is the fact that the polarities, tensions, and complexities that they find in Israel point them toward the polarities, tensions, and complexities that exist inside of them. Israel shows them how these tensions and complexities, when appropriately and maturely embraced and honored, are actually a profound blessing, bringing about tremendous creativity, authenticity, and spirit. The importance of this really can't be overstated. That's because how our kids understand, reconcile, and ultimate embrace their complexity and richness ends up being one of the major tasks of adolescence. It's a task that too many kids aren't prepared for, aren't supported in, and therefore often don't fully complete. Coming to Israel at such a pivotal moment in their lives accelerates and shapes how they begin to manifest their new, more nuanced, more mature, and more complex identities. That's because it gives them a chance to explore how the very things they love about Israel can end up being the very things they love about themselves-- their tensions, their nuances, their contradictions, their big questions, their passions, their doubts, their particularities and peculiarities. Knowing that much of this is likely beginning to percolate in our kids hearts and souls, we should all think about how we can honor their growth and help them continue to become the people they are meant to be. Sending them on this trip is a major step in the right direction.